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Asscher Diamonds


The vintage elegance of the early 20th century is reflected in the artistic Asscher diamond, one of the world’s most unique and sought-after gems.

This style is the result of cutting the corners of a rectangular diamond. The cut was designed and developed in 1902 by the Asscher brothers of Holland, who had been commissioned to cut the world’s largest diamond in history, the 3,106 carat Cullinan diamond. The result of their work with this famous gem became the signature and highly demanded Asscher cut.

The Asscher is a peculiar variation of the Emerald Cut, with deeper cropping or mitring of the corners. Because of the corner cut, the final shape is near octagonal. The special arrangement of the wider cut facets, combined with the proportions on the top of the diamond, makes this stone produce more fire than a typical step cut diamond. The stunning angles draw attention toward the centre of the stone and deep into the centre of diamond, giving it a very dramatic appearance. An Asscher diamond has a sparkle that does not necessarily have more flashes of light than the most brilliant-cut diamonds; however it is certainly on par with these gems, due to the cut corners, small table, high peaking crown and the depth of the pavilion.

The proportioning of the mitred square and deep step facets help improve the overall presentation of an Asscher Cut Diamond beyond the limiting factors of a classic Emerald Cut. The difference is, flaws are less visible and colour saturation is less essential. Furthermore, Asscher cuts make greater retention of original carat weight an important factor.

Geometric jewellery was the height of fashion during the 1920’s, and these angular baubles took much inspiration from the Cubist movement and the entire Art Deco scene. The limited availability of original Asscher cuts and the Great Depression led to the stone becoming a rare find, salvaged from antique stores and specific deco jewellery dealers. The 21st century has seen a fashionable revival of classic diamonds such as this one, however. In 2001, the Asscher cut went through a modern revitalisation. After much research and development, the diamond was introduced to jewellers again, but this time with new specifications. The updated Asscher contains additional facets that give it an even more brilliant shine. With the rising popularity of square shaped stones in general, Asscher cuts are in great demand. Their classic and incomparable presentation has caught the eyes of those looking for a timeless piece, and is increasingly featured in pop culture, as celebrities often don this cut.

Because of its variation and similarity to the Emerald Cut, some retailers entirely ignore the importance of the Asscher diamond. Mixed opinion within the industry probably best typifies commentary upon the merits of these gems. In the end, like with all diamond cuts, remember how personal and individual each buyers’ decisions and reasons are. Diamonds should be an expression of individual taste. The Asscher cut represents its owners as elegant and nostalgic, a diamond that blends retro with modernism.