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Marquise Diamonds


A ring fashioned after the uplifting smile of a king’s mistress is the inspiration behind the centuries-old, romantic and mysterious Marquise diamond.

Shaped like a woman’s slyly pursed mouth, the Marquise cut is instantly recognisable in the form of its elongated oval shape and thin, pointed ends. France’s King Louis XIV asked jewellers to create a unique shape to reflect his courtesan’s grin, and the slender result is still, hundreds of years later, casting its allure. The Marquise is an elegant and still practical selection. Because of its interesting, stretched shape, it always appears larger than its actual carat weight. Those looking to make an impression without impressing upon the pocketbook, would be well served with this deceptive and historically romantic gem. A rough stone will retain much more weight as a Marquise shape than as a Round. This selling point broadcasts a quality gem at a more quality price.

There is not a set standard for the dimensions of the cut, so personal preference of the cutter often times dictates the choice. However, if the facet angle designation is maintained, the Marquise cut results, essentially, in a fancy cut variation of the Round Brilliant. The stone is cut in a multifaceted way that casts light in a fetching manner, and radiates well in the sunlight. Although it is a common cut, if the cutter creates the Marquise in an ill-proportion, the result will look worse than a correspondingly badly proportioned round stone.

Marquise diamonds sometimes suffer from dark markings across the middle of the width of the stone. Due to the shape of the mark, this has come to be known as the “bow-tie” effect. Diamond cutters generally try hard to avoid or minimise this effect. To best choose a Marquise with a minimal “bow-tie” shadowing, examine many stones. Also compare the proportioning of the crown to the pavilion and look for a pleasing ratio of width to length. If it is too thin, too much light will escape from the bottom, rather than being dispersed through the facets of the crown. A Marquise Diamond that is too long and skinny will look peculiar and awkward if it is too wide and fat for the length.

A surprising and economical gem that is traditional, the Marquise cut diamond is a stunning pick. The long vertical presentation elongates the finger and creates a gentle and feminine look while maintaining its rich historical back story.